Seagrill, one of Brussels’ three two-star Michelin restaurants is tucked inside the Radisson SAS hotel next to De Brouckere. With only 12 tables and a spacious, modern, minimalistic setting (albeit with classically Belgian brown tones in the entire decor), Seagrill offers a pleasant dining experience, although maybe not what one would expect from a two-star establishment with the price tag that goes with it.
The service is good, attentive, polite and friendly, but not as impeccably well-trained as in other restaurants of the same, or an even “lower” (I use this term loosely… one-star restaurants still have pretty high standards) category. At times, it felt they were rushing a bit and were perhaps too noticeable. The atmosphere is pleasant: there is plenty of space for a relatively quiet, private meal as the room is spacious and tables are not close to each other. However, the acoustics are not ideal. If you have a group or the restaurant is full, it can get somewhat loud (again, this is “Michelin loud”, and not “Saturday night Saint-Gery-bar loud”…)
So, finally, the food: good, well cooked, appealing presentation, good portions and the expected amount of amuse-bouches, but nothing surprising… And worryingly enough, nothing that I would crave more of! I probably would not have had second servings of anything, which was disappointing. Also of concern is the fact that the desserts were more memorable than the main courses. The homemade caramel was delicious, as was the lychee sorbet on the pineapple dessert. However, these were just a few elements of the ensemble. [Caveat: I had the lunch menu. Maybe the dinner menus are more thrilling… ?]
To his credit, the chef, Yves Mattagne, was actually in the house and came out of the kitchen to personally greet diners once all main dishes had been served. That’s something one doesn’t see every day and is a praiseworthy gesture.
Was I expecting much? Of course! The experience was nice, but not life-changing and without any wow-factor. There was no “Hmmm… you should try this” or “wow, can I have more of this?” which many other restaurants (with or without stars) do manage to elicit…
For a more exciting, surprising and engaging experience, I would place my bets on this year’s new edition of Culinaria (and at a much better value!)
Seagrill. Lunch menu (three courses) for EUR 65